When improving an existing design, making it more environment friendly by choosing different materials, this tool might come in handy. The ABC-X list, developed by EPEA.
Before you choose materials for your design write them down in a list and do research after each material, you can use the blog article of last month for more information about this.
You can go as much in depth as you think is necessary. For example you could also apply the ABC-X list on one fabric and list down all the chemicals that are used to make that fabric.
Important to know is that the ABC-X list originally was designed to consider the toxicity of a chemical but you could make the ABC-X lists for all different aspects. For example: energy input, water input, land-use.
The Made-by Fibre benchmark has already made calculations for you on greenhouse gases, human toxicity, eco-toxicity, energy input, water input and land use and made a list that looks a bit like the ABC-X list.
- what is the resource? Is it renewable or not?
- How is the material made? Which chemicals are needed for example to dye? Are they non-toxic? (an interesting website to see the toxicity of a chemical is http://textileguide.chemsec.org/)
- Is the material biodegradable?
- Is the material recyclable?
- “The X-List are substances that must be removed from all products since they are known to be carcinogenic, mutagenic, and/or disruptive to the endocrine system of humans and animals.
- The Gray List substances are not ideal but lack viable subsitutes and are necessary for continued manufacture.
- The Passive Positive List substances (C and B) are okay to use since they have a neutral impact on the environment.
- The aim is to use substances from the Active Postive List, which are completely compatible with human and environmental health, and are selected for their "good" and useful qualities.” [1]
You can go as much in depth as you think is necessary. For example you could also apply the ABC-X list on one fabric and list down all the chemicals that are used to make that fabric.
Important to know is that the ABC-X list originally was designed to consider the toxicity of a chemical but you could make the ABC-X lists for all different aspects. For example: energy input, water input, land-use.
The Made-by Fibre benchmark has already made calculations for you on greenhouse gases, human toxicity, eco-toxicity, energy input, water input and land use and made a list that looks a bit like the ABC-X list.
Design for disassembly
Now you are able to make a scheme that shows you each material in a product and if it needs to be replaced. However this ABC-X list does not show you the relations between the materials. And in order to make a product biodegradable or recyclable it is important to consider this relation so design for disassembly becomes possible.
For example you use an organic undyed hemp fabric and glue it on a recycled polyester fabric with a glue that does not give of toxic emissions. Then your materials might be Class A, but the relation between them (a biodegradable and non-biodegradable material permanently fused by glue) makes design for disassembly impossible.
You could make a ABC-X list with the topic design for disassembly and fill in the materials of a product.
ABC-X list based on design for disassembly for a jacket.
Now you are able to make a scheme that shows you each material in a product and if it needs to be replaced. However this ABC-X list does not show you the relations between the materials. And in order to make a product biodegradable or recyclable it is important to consider this relation so design for disassembly becomes possible.
For example you use an organic undyed hemp fabric and glue it on a recycled polyester fabric with a glue that does not give of toxic emissions. Then your materials might be Class A, but the relation between them (a biodegradable and non-biodegradable material permanently fused by glue) makes design for disassembly impossible.
You could make a ABC-X list with the topic design for disassembly and fill in the materials of a product.
ABC-X list based on design for disassembly for a jacket.
- A zipper is difficult to take off
- A button is easier to take of then a zipper
- A waterproof coating is difficult to take off
- A silkscreen print is difficult to take off
- A cord is easier to take of then a zipper
- An embroidered logo is difficult to take off
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