Timo Rissanen
To create zero waste with a textile design there are multiple options. For example fully fashioned knitwear, 3D printing or not designing at all (probably not your preferred option). The most known option is Zero Waste Pattern Cutting (ZWPC) and in this blog article I am going to give a few examples.
From 2D to 3D
For many years we make garments by changing a flat surface into a 3D one by cutting patterns out of a fabric and stitching them together. Most of the time this creates waste, because there is a negative space between the patterns. With software like CAD (Computer Aided Design) you could create as less waste as possible. The computer solves the tetris puzzle and lays down the patterns in such an order the cutting waste is reduced to the minimum.
Start in 3D right away
In order to create zero waste you could decide to use fully fashioned knitwear. Hereby you directly knit the patterns in the right shape. This is normal for handknitting but can be done with machines as well.
Another option is to 3D print the garment (take a look here for more info about 3D printed textiles). With most of the 3D printing techniques you can reuse the leftover material.
For many years we make garments by changing a flat surface into a 3D one by cutting patterns out of a fabric and stitching them together. Most of the time this creates waste, because there is a negative space between the patterns. With software like CAD (Computer Aided Design) you could create as less waste as possible. The computer solves the tetris puzzle and lays down the patterns in such an order the cutting waste is reduced to the minimum.
Start in 3D right away
In order to create zero waste you could decide to use fully fashioned knitwear. Hereby you directly knit the patterns in the right shape. This is normal for handknitting but can be done with machines as well.
Another option is to 3D print the garment (take a look here for more info about 3D printed textiles). With most of the 3D printing techniques you can reuse the leftover material.
| Start with a flat fabric With ZWPC you begin with the flat fabric, which is mostly a square or a rectangle. Out of this shape you create the garment. This can for example be done by cutting, folding or stringing together. One square fits all is the name of a collection of Karin Vlug. “one square fits all” consists of 90° angles only, such as the square and the T-form. Sewing is not necessary, my pattern pieces contain tunnels and incisions, hence construction of the garment is possible by stringing together with a ribbon.“ |  Karin Vlug |
Timo Rissanen made a pyjamas based on the ZWPC principles. In an article on Seamwork he explained more about the proces.
Zero waste or less material use?
When I just started Refinity in 2009 I went to a lecture by Mark Liu about ZWPC. I remember I loved the concept, but had difficulties with his way of working. It looks like the form of his garments is less important than making the item Zero Waste. And it seems there is no waste left, but in the end he uses more material than a minimalistic design.
Zero waste or less material use?
When I just started Refinity in 2009 I went to a lecture by Mark Liu about ZWPC. I remember I loved the concept, but had difficulties with his way of working. It looks like the form of his garments is less important than making the item Zero Waste. And it seems there is no waste left, but in the end he uses more material than a minimalistic design.
Mark Liu
Clever use of space
Holly McQuillan experimented with a combination of multiple garments in one pattern, to create a variety of items and shapes without waste. Combining the patterns of multiple garments makes the puzzle more complex, but gives you more form options.
Holly McQuillan experimented with a combination of multiple garments in one pattern, to create a variety of items and shapes without waste. Combining the patterns of multiple garments makes the puzzle more complex, but gives you more form options.
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Tips & Tools
- Last year Timo Rissanen and Holly McQuillan wrote a book about ZWPC: Zero Waste Fashion Design.
- Holly McQuillan gives workshops and has a downloadable manual on how to start with ZWPC.
- On the website Makeuse.nz you find free downloadable patterns and tutorials to create Zero Waste garments.
- Update 2018: Skunkfunk Zero Waste patterns in the download file.
| flyers_zerowaste_fr-en-1.pdf |
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