March – August 2010
We have a water problem. Worldwide fresh water sources are becoming scarce because of the increase of water usage in processes and decrease of the quality of water. At the moment many litres of water, toxic chemicals, energy and time are used to dye textile. The textile of this shirt is dyed with CO2 instead of water. 95% of the CO2 is being reused after each dyeing cycle. The full process, from blank textile to dry and dyed, takes up 3 hours max., depending on the colour. The design allows more ventilation, as result the product needs less washing.
Dyecoo developed a dyeing machine that dyes textile using CO2. The textile is on a cylinder inside the machine. The CO2 is pumped into the machine. The pressure is raised to around 250 bar, the CO2 liquidizes and mixes with the dye. Through circulation the textile is dyed. After the dying cycle the pressure is removed, after which the CO2 turns back into gas and the fabric dries. The dye used for dying in CO2 is the same as the one used in the current dying process with water but without addition of extra chemicals such as dispersion agents, salts etc. The remaining dye is collected after each dying cycle and this way it will not end up in the environment. At the moment this process is only possible with polyester, but further development is being carried out with cotton, polyamides and other fabrics.
I took the falling of water as my starting point. By opening up the seam of the sleeve at the inside of the armpit more air ventilation is caused, because of which the shirt needs less washing. I’ve chosen a cuff to close up the sleeves so that no elastic band is needed to create a tight effect and this way the shirt is made from one fabric, which makes it easier to upcycle it. This is also the reason why the logo is lasered instead of printed.
The used textile, thread and buttons are made from common polyester. It is easy to recycle polyester, but it is still made in a harmful process. Polyester is also made from crude petroleum, a non-renewable source that will run out eventually. The advantage of polyester compared to natural materials is that it does not need any water to grow. In the future it will be possible to use polyester that is made from recycled polyester without harmful chemicals.
Who is Dyecoo Textile Systems B.V.?
Photography in direct management, Hair & Make-up Maaike Woertink, Model Merel de Jong